The Edge

gear that takes you there

I have been on the road for the last few weeks seeing customers and showing them the 2010 and 2011 sample products from Black Diamond. This is gave me a rare chance to use the
samples and compare
their different features before replacing my (now 5 year old) BD Focus AL. I took the
Momentum SA ‘10, Focus SA ’10 (& my ’05) and the 2011 Ozone and hit the
road:



The Momentum SA is targeted at beginner climbers buying their first harness, therefore the harness is about function, comfort and price. In my use of it I find it a very good harness
for the price you pay: 4 gear loops, comfortable padding, longevity and Speed
Adjust buckles (SA). Note : for those who don’t need the adjustable leg –
you can get a cheaper & lighter version of the same thing in the Momemtum



It has been fun comparing the new version of the Focus to my old unit and seeing what the BD has been playing with in its design: the new version has a thicker and more supportive foam, wider swami
belt that has a slightly different shape to the ‘05. The results speak for
themselves: more comfort with more mobility. Just this weekend
I was climbing at Umgeni
and had to negotiate a high hand/foot match while precariously balanced on a
bad crimp. This move demands
that you put your thigh close to your side, and so I was pleased that the ’10
Focus narrows above the hips
, otherwise the move would have been that much
harder.
This unit is ideally suited to the
regular sport / trad climber who is willing to pay a bit for more comfort than
is available from the Momentum. It is available in fixed leg loop or SA.



Unfortunately the ’11 Ozone still needs to see a few more customers and get inspected by the Boven Rally participants and so I
haven’t been able to try it out yet, but I do look forward to using a harness
with Kinetic Core
Construction (http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en-glbl/about-us/company/technologies) which reduces weight and increases supplety while
offering-from what I have been told- good comfort. I know this harness is a
sending harness, not a working one and so I can forgive it if it isn’t as
comfortable as the Focus. In the mean while I will keep using the Focus
’10
J

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